JOINTING

Our solid surface worktops are jointed using self-coloured adhesive in such way that the actual joint becomes virtually inconspicuous, leaving you with a smooth, solid worksurface.

A seamless finish ensures an aesthetically pleasing, hygienic and functional worksurface solution.

HOW TO JOINT

The product can be readily installed using standard wood working equipment and templating is not required.

The unique properties which allow one of our solid surface worktops to appear seamless even around its joint lines also allow an excellent edge finish to be achieved.

An edging strip is applied to the exposed edge using special self coloured adhesive, leaving a slight overhang which is then simply sanded back to leave a smooth and solid-looking edge.

CUT & FINISH

This system of neat and simple re-edging opens up numerous kitchen planning options and allows you to create worksurfaces to fit your own design requirements.

CARE & MAINTENANCE

Our worktops have been developed to be used in the kitchen environment, and although no ‘special’ maintenance is needed we recommend the following is adhered to, as prevention is always better than cure.

ROUTINE CLEANING

Clean in much the same way as you would maintain any other working surface.

Most dirt and light residue will easily wipe away with a damp cloth and soapy water.

The worksurface should then be rinsed with clean water and wiped dry.

Persistent marks can be removed by using a non-abrasive cleaner, but harsh scouring powders should be avoided. A nylon bristle brush can be used to remove stubborn stains from the subtle texture in the surface.

LIMESCALE

To remove limescale apply vinegar or citric acid to the surface. Rinse afterwards with clean water and wipe dry.

HEAT

Our solid surface worktops will withstand heat better than many alternative surface materials. However, all hot pots, pans and other heat generating devices should always be placed upon heat resistant pads, to prevent extreme heat having prolonged and direct contact with the surface. Boiling water and cooking splashes do not harm the surface.

STAINING

Solid surface worktops will resist most household chemicals including alcohol and cosmetics. However some chemicals and strong dyes can cause damage and discoloration. If spillage occurs of beetroot juice, concentrated fruit juices, dyes, chemicals, strong bleaches or cleaners, etc, wipe off immediately and rinse area thoroughly.

SCRATCHING

Crockery and normal kitchen utensils sliding around should not harm. The surface can be damaged by scratching or cutting with knives or sharp utensils, so the use of a chopping board is essential.

FURTHER FITTING AND JOINTING NOTES FOR SOLID SURFACES

Solid surface worktops must be conditioned for at least 24 hours at room temperature prior to fitting. Worksurfaces should be stored horizontally.
If the worksurface is a replacement you can use the old surface as a template. Before fitting check the work top for any flaws.

Jointing the Worksurface

When planning the location of the worksurface joints in your kitchen design it is important to note the following constraints:

• Angled joints are not permitted.
• No joints should be made above a dishwasher or in the area around cut-outs.
• Joints should be at least 100mm away from all cut-outs and dishwasher installations.
• Tooling required:
• 2.5 HP router
• Masons mitre or “J” Jig12mm twin flute TCT cutter (sharp) with 30mm guide ring
• Titman UGALR arbor
• Titman UG3 groover
  

1. Use a router and 12mm cutter with a straight edge to cut the female worksurface to the desired length.
2. To produce the 13mm groove for the loose tongues use the straight edge of the mitre jig and the 3mm grooving blade
3. Set the grooving saw to score the underside of the solid surface.
• Once the groove has been machined take care not to place pressure on the unsupported solid surface.
4. Stop groove 3mm from front edge.
5. Using 80-grit sandpaper score the underside of the solid surface and the top face of the loose tongue
6. To clean the inside of the grooves and the loose tongue use de-natured alcohol or a slightly damp cloth.
7. Position two layers of masking tape approx 1mm from the edge of each joint line
8. It is advised that the joint is dry fitted before bonding, to check it.
9. Ensure that the appropriate adhesive colour for the worksurface décor is being used
10. Position the first worksurface onto the base units and apply a coating of the 2-part acrylic adhesive into the groove of the first board and insert the loose tongues (2 for 600mm tops, 3 for 900mm tops).
11. Apply adhesive into the groove of the second board, along one edge above the tongue and the board underneath the tongue.
12. Pull the worksurfaces together using worksurface connecting bolts.
    
    NB The open time of the adhesive is 10-15 minutes. The worksurface can be processed further after approximately 45 minutes.
    
13. Tap the surface level with a rubber mallet and tighten the bolts
14. Before the adhesive starts to cure, bridge the strips of masking tap with a spatula or scraper and remove any excess adhesive.
15. Remove the masking tape to leave a small bead of adhesive.
    • The hardening time of the adhesive depends on the ambient temperature and the amount of adhesive applied.
    • The hardening can be checked with a fingernail.
16. Once cured, the bead of adhesive can be removed by sanding with a random orbital sander with the following order of sandpaper grades: P120 to remove the bead, P240, P320 and then finish with Scotch-Brite tm 7447 (red) wet.
    • Ensure that dust is removed between sanding processes.
    • When changing the frit, increase the sanding area slightly to blend.

Making a Cut-Out in the Work top for Inset Hobs and Sinks

It is extremely important to follow the instructions in this section very carefully, especially when making hob cut-outs. Failure to do so may invalidate the product warranty.

1. To overmount sinks into the worksurface simply place the sink upside down on the worksurface in the desired position
2. Mark a line on the worksurface by tracing around the sink edge, and then mark a second line 8mm inside the first line.
3. Mill the cut-out using a router and cutter with minimum 20mm diameter. Cut around the inner line.
   • The internal corner radii of the cut-out must be at least 10mm, and the spacing between the hob unit and worktop must be at least 7mm.
   • A radius of a least 3mm must be milled to the top edge of the solid surface material.
4. Mark the position of the mounting plugs on the underside of the worksurface before clamping.
5. The using a router or sharp chisel cut recesses so that the sink clips sit flush and do not protrude and interfere with the top surface of the kitchen cabinets.
6. Metal clamping clips are provided to clamp the sink down onto the worksurface
7. To bed the sink onto the worksurface use a silicone sealant
8. The inside of the cut-out must be sealed with either PVA adhesive, silicone or varnish to prevent moisture ingress.
9. To ensure that your worksurface remains in excellent condition, it is essential that all exposed edges are sealed with silicone sealant or adhesive. Critical areas include the sink and hob cut-outs, masons mitres and exposed edges and butt joints of the worksurface.
10. Please note that heat resistant tape must be applied around the hob cut-out.
11. The foam strip provided by the hob supplier must always be fixed under the rim prior to installation of the hob.
12. Please note that dishwashers and dryers must have a diffuser plate mounted to the underside of the worksurface.

Tips

When tiling down to the worksurface leave a minimum of 3mm gap between the bottom row of tiles and the worksurface. This gap should be sealed with a silicone sealant. Do not fill the gap with grout.

End Cap Installation

1. Cut the worksurface to length +5mm using a saw.
2. Trim to exact size using a router
3. Use the straight edge of a masons mitre jig as a guide for the router.
4. All bonding surfaces must be cleaned with acetone or denatured alcohol using a clean, light, lint-free rag and then no longer be touched with bare hands.
5. The acrylic adhesive is applied to the edge strip or the substrate.
6. Clamp the edging every 100 to 150mm and using 3 way clamps leave the adhesive to cure for approximately 5 minutes. Tighten the clamps only hand-tight.
7. Use a strip of wood between the clamp and the top of the worksurface to avoid the foot of the clamp bruising the surface material.
8. After the adhesive has cured, trim of flush to all surfaces with a random orbital sander using P120 to remove the adhesive of any overhang of surface material, P240, P320 and then finish with Scotch-Brite tm 7447 (red) wet.